");}.wysiwyg .info-box--activity::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--car::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--food::after { background-image: url('data:image/svg+xml, ');}.wysiwyg .info-box--info::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--link::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--location::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--tickets::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--times::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--train::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--travel::after { background-image: url('data:image/svg+xml, ');}.wysiwyg .info-box--savings::after { background-image: url('data:image/svg+xml, ');}.wysiwyg .info-box > * + * { -webkit-margin-before: var(--spacing-p-start); margin-block-start: var(--spacing-p-start);}.wysiwyg .info-box > * + *:is(h2, h3, h4, h5) { -webkit-margin-before: 2.625rem; margin-block-start: 2.625rem;}.wysiwyg img { width: 100%;}.icon { width: 1em; height: 1em; fill: currentColor;}a { color: var(--color-copy); text-decoration: underline; -webkit-text-decoration-color: var(--color-copy); text-decoration-color: var(--color-copy); transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), -webkit-text-decoration-color var(--timing) var(--ease); transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), text-decoration-color var(--timing) var(--ease); transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), text-decoration-color var(--timing) var(--ease), -webkit-text-decoration-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}a:hover { color: currentColor; -webkit-text-decoration-color: currentColor; text-decoration-color: currentColor;}/*a[target="_blank"]::after { content: ""; display: inline-block; width: 0.8em; height: 0.8em; -webkit-margin-start: 0.333em; margin-inline-start: 0.333em; background-color: currentColor; -webkit-mask: url('data:image/svg+xml, '); mask: url('data:image/svg+xml, '); -webkit-mask-size: cover; mask-size: cover;}*/*:focus { outline: none;}*:focus-visible { outline: var(--line) solid currentColor; outline-offset: 2px;}[id] { --scroll-margin: 5rem; scroll-margin: var(--scroll-margin);}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { [id] { --scroll-margin: 8.75rem; }}.module { margin-block: var(--responsive-spacing-y);}.module.module--less-spacing { margin-block: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2);}.module__title { -webkit-margin-after: 2rem; margin-block-end: 2rem;}.container { margin-inline: auto; inline-size: 100%; max-inline-size: var(--container--width);}.container--wide { max-inline-size: var(--container--width--wide);}.container--wider { max-inline-size: var(--container--width--wider);}.container--full { max-inline-size: var(--container--width--full);}.container--left-wide { -webkit-margin-start: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wide)) / 2); margin-inline-start: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wide)) / 2);}.container--left-wider { -webkit-margin-start: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2); margin-inline-start: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2);}.container--right-wide { -webkit-margin-end: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2); margin-inline-end: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2);}.container--right-wider { -webkit-margin-end: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2); margin-inline-end: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2);}form,fieldset { margin: 0; padding: 0; min-width: 0; border: none;}[type="text"],[type="name"],[type="url"],[type="number"],[type="email"],[type="tel"],[type="search"],[type="password"],textarea,select { display: block; margin: 0; padding: 0.4375rem 0.75rem; min-width: 1px; width: 100%; max-width: 100%; min-height: 44px; font-size: 1rem; color: var(--color-copy); background-color: var(--color-body); border: var(--line) solid var(--color-neutral); -webkit-appearance: none;}@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { [type="text"], [type="name"], [type="url"], [type="number"], [type="email"], [type="tel"], [type="search"], [type="password"], textarea, select { will-change: background-color, border-color; transition: background-color var(--timing) var(--ease), border-color var(--timing) var(--ease); }}[type="text"]:hover,[type="name"]:hover,[type="url"]:hover,[type="number"]:hover,[type="email"]:hover,[type="tel"]:hover,[type="search"]:hover,[type="password"]:hover,textarea:hover,select:hover { background-color: var(--gray-1);}[type="text"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="name"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="url"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="number"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="email"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="tel"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="search"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="password"]::-moz-placeholder,textarea::-moz-placeholder,select::-moz-placeholder { font-size: 1rem; color: var(--gray-8);}[type="text"]::placeholder,[type="name"]::placeholder,[type="url"]::placeholder,[type="number"]::placeholder,[type="email"]::placeholder,[type="tel"]::placeholder,[type="search"]::placeholder,[type="password"]::placeholder,textarea::placeholder,select::placeholder { font-size: 1rem; color: var(--gray-8);}[type="text"]:focus,[type="name"]:focus,[type="url"]:focus,[type="number"]:focus,[type="email"]:focus,[type="tel"]:focus,[type="search"]:focus,[type="password"]:focus,textarea:focus,select:focus { box-shadow: none; border-color: var(--gray-6);}[type="search"]::-webkit-search-cancel-button { -webkit-appearance: none;}select { -webkit-padding-end: 2.75rem; padding-inline-end: 2.75rem; background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg fill='%23999999' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 320 512'%3E%3Cpath d='M31.3 192h257.3c17.8 0 26.7 21.5 14.1 34.1L174.1 354.8c-7.8 7.8-20.5 7.8-28.3 0L17.2 226.1C4.6 213.5 13.5 192 31.3 192z'%3E%3C/path%3E%3C/svg%3E"); background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: 1rem; background-position: right 0.75rem center; cursor: pointer;}[disabled="disabled"] { opacity: 0.5; cursor: not-allowed;}.form { padding: 1rem; background-color: var(--gray-2); border-radius: var(--roundness);}@media (min-width: 20em) { .form { padding: calc(1rem + 16 * ((100vw - 320px) / 400)); }}@media (min-width: 45em) { .form { padding: 2rem; }}.form__section + .form__section { -webkit-margin-before: 1.5rem; margin-block-start: 1.5rem;}.form__section-title { font-size: 1.25rem; line-height: 1.5; font-weight: bold;}.form__input-container + .form__input-container { -webkit-margin-before: 1.5rem; margin-block-start: 1.5rem;}[type="submit"]:not([class]),.form__submit { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}[type="submit"]:not([class]) > *,.form__submit > * { pointer-events: none;}[type="submit"]:not([class]):is(a),.form__submit:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}[type="submit"]:not([class]):is(a):hover,.form__submit:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}[type="submit"]:not([class]):active,.form__submit:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}[type="submit"]:not([class]):hover,.form__submit:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}[type="submit"]:not([class]):focus-visible,.form__submit:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.form__submit-container { display: grid; -webkit-margin-before: 1.5rem; margin-block-start: 1.5rem;}@media (min-width: 35.5em) { .form__submit-container { justify-items: end; }}@media (max-width: 35.4375em) { .form__submit-container .form__submit { width: 100%; justify-content: center; }}label:not([class]),.form__input-label { display: block; font-weight: 700; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--color-copy);}label:not([class]) .required,.form__input-label .required { color: var(--red-5); text-decoration: none;}.checkbox,.radio { display: grid; grid-template-columns: auto 1fr; gap: 0.5rem; align-items: baseline;}.checkbox input,.radio input { grid-column-start: 1; margin: 0; accent-color: var(--color-highlight);}@-moz-document url-prefix() { .checkbox input, .radio input { transform: translateY(0.375rem); }}.checkbox label,.radio label { grid-column-start: 2;}.checkbox input,.checkbox label,.radio input,.radio label { cursor: pointer;}.snackbar { position: fixed; z-index: 4; padding: 1em; border-radius: var(--roundness);}@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .snackbar { -webkit-animation: snackbarEntry var(--timing) var(--ease) forwards; animation: snackbarEntry var(--timing) var(--ease) forwards; }}@media (max-width: 35.4375em) { .snackbar { right: calc(1rem / 2); bottom: calc(1rem / 2); left: calc(1rem / 2); }}@media (max-width: 35.4375em) and (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .snackbar { transform: translateY(calc(100% + 1rem)); }}@media (min-width: 35.5em) { .snackbar { top: 1rem; right: 1rem; margin-inline: 1rem 2.75rem; max-width: 666px; }}@media (min-width: 35.5em) and (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .snackbar { transform: translateX(calc(100% + 1rem)); }}.snackbar--success { background-color: var(--green-1); color: var(--green-5);}.snackbar--error { background-color: var(--red-1); color: var(--red-5);}.snackbar--has-icon { display: grid; gap: var(--spacing);}@media (min-width: 35.5em) { .snackbar--has-icon { grid-template-columns: 2rem 1fr; align-items: center; }}.snackbar__icon { width: 2rem; height: 2rem;}.snackbar__close { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; display: flex; justify-content: center; align-items: center; width: 2rem; height: 2rem; padding: 0; position: absolute; top: 0; right: 0;}.snackbar__close > * { pointer-events: none;}.snackbar__close:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.snackbar__close:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.snackbar__close:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon) { position: absolute; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); height: 1px; width: 1px; margin: -1px; padding: 0; border: none;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease); display: block; position: fixed; inset: var(--spacing) auto auto var(--spacing); height: auto; width: auto; clip: auto; z-index: 99;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus > * { pointer-events: none;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.snackbar__close-icon { margin-inline: auto 0; align-self: start;}@-webkit-keyframes snackbarEntry { to { transform: translate(0); }}@keyframes snackbarEntry { to { transform: translate(0); }}input[type="text"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="name"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="url"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="number"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="email"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="tel"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="search"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="password"][aria-invalid="true"],textarea[aria-invalid="true"],select[aria-invalid="true"] { border-color: var(--red-5);}input[type="text"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="name"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="url"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="number"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="email"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="tel"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="search"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="password"][aria-invalid="false"],textarea[aria-invalid="false"],select[aria-invalid="false"] { border-color: var(--green-5);}[aria-invalid="true"] + .fv-plugins-message-container,[aria-invalid="true"] + label + .fv-plugins-message-container { color: var(--red-5);}.searchform-toggle { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; display: flex; justify-content: center; align-items: center; width: 2rem; height: 2rem; padding: 0; background-color: transparent; color: currentColor; transition: background-color var(--transition), color var(--transition);}.searchform-toggle > * { pointer-events: none;}.searchform-toggle:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.searchform-toggle:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.searchform-toggle:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon) { position: absolute; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); height: 1px; width: 1px; margin: -1px; padding: 0; border: none;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease); display: block; position: fixed; inset: var(--spacing) auto auto var(--spacing); height: auto; width: auto; clip: auto; z-index: 99;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus > * { pointer-events: none;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.searchform-toggle:hover { background-color: var(--color-copy); color: var(--color-body);}@media (max-width: 81.1875em) { .searchform-toggle { display: none; }}.site-header .searchform-container { position: relative;}@media (max-width: 81.1875em) { .site-header .searchform-container { width: 100%; max-width: var(--container--width--wider); -webkit-margin-before: 1.5rem; margin-block-start: 1.5rem; margin-inline: auto; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .site-header .searchform-container { display: none; }}.search .intro .searchform-container { max-width: 50rem; margin: 0 auto;}.search .intro .searchform-container:not(:first-child) { -webkit-margin-before: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2); margin-block-start: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2);}.search .intro .searchform-container:not(:last-child) { -webkit-margin-after: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2); margin-block-end: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2);}.searchform { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr auto; gap: 10px; background-color: var(--color-bg);}.site-header .searchform:not([aria-hidden="false"]) { display: none;}.searchform__input[type="search"] { background-color: var(--color-bg); border: 0;}.searchform__submit { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; display: flex; justify-content: center; align-items: center; width: 2rem; height: 2rem; padding: 0; align-self: center; background-color: transparent; color: currentColor; transition: background-color var(--transition), color var(--transition);}.searchform__submit > * { pointer-events: none;}.searchform__submit:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.searchform__submit:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.searchform__submit:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon) { position: absolute; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); height: 1px; width: 1px; margin: -1px; padding: 0; border: none;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease); display: block; position: fixed; inset: var(--spacing) auto auto var(--spacing); height: auto; width: auto; clip: auto; z-index: 99;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus > * { pointer-events: none;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .searchform__submit { will-change: color; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease); }}.searchform__submit:hover { background-color: var(--color-copy); color: var(--color-body);}.search-nav:not(:first-child) { -webkit-margin-before: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2); margin-block-start: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2);}.search-nav:not(:last-child) { -webkit-margin-after: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2); margin-block-end: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2);}.search-nav__list { display: flex; -webkit-border-after: var(--line) solid var(--color-bg); border-block-end: var(--line) solid var(--color-bg);}.search-nav__list-item-link { display: flex; position: relative; top: 2px; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; padding: 0.5em 1.5em; -webkit-border-after: var(--line) solid transparent; border-block-end: var(--line) solid transparent; text-decoration: none; transition: border var(--transition), color var(--transition);}.current_page_item .search-nav__list-item-link { border-color: var(--color-action); font-weight: bold;}.search-nav__list-item-link:hover { border-color: var(--color-highlight); color: var(--color-highlight);}.search-nav__list-item-count { -webkit-margin-start: 0.5em; margin-inline-start: 0.5em;}.nav-primary { font-size: var(--font-size-medium); font-weight: bold;}.nav-primary a,.nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary a,.nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle { color: currentColor; line-height: 1.3; transition: background-color var(--transition), color var(--transition);}.nav-primary a:hover,.nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary a:hover,.nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle:hover { background-color: var(--color-copy); color: var(--color-body);}.nav-primary a:active,.nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle:active,.nav-secondary a:active,.nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle:active { opacity: 0.8;}.nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; white-space: nowrap; overflow: hidden; text-overflow: ellipsis; width: 100%; min-height: 44px; justify-content: space-between; font-size: 1em;}.nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle > *,.nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle > * { pointer-events: none;}.nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle__icon,.nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle__icon { fill: currentColor; width: 0.75em; height: 0.75em; -webkit-margin-start: 0.333em; margin-inline-start: 0.333em; transition: transform var(--transition);}.nav-primary a,.nav-secondary a { display: flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; text-decoration: none;}.nav-primary a[target="_blank"],.nav-secondary a[target="_blank"] { -webkit-padding-end: 1.5em; padding-inline-end: 1.5em; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-position: right center; background-size: 1em; background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg fill='%23fff' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='16' height='16' viewBox='0 0 576 512'%3E%3Cpath d='M576 24v127.984c0 21.461-25.96 31.98-40.971 16.971l-35.707-35.709-243.523 243.523c-9.373 9.373-24.568 9.373-33.941 0l-22.627-22.627c-9.373-9.373-9.373-24.569 0-33.941L442.756 76.676l-35.703-35.705C391.982 25.9 402.656 0 424.024 0H552c13.255 0 24 10.745 24 24zM407.029 270.794l-16 16A23.999 23.999 0 0 0 384 303.765V448H64V128h264a24.003 24.003 0 0 0 16.97-7.029l16-16C376.089 89.851 365.381 64 344 64H48C21.49 64 0 85.49 0 112v352c0 26.51 21.49 48 48 48h352c26.51 0 48-21.49 48-48V287.764c0-21.382-25.852-32.09-40.971-16.97z'%3E%3C/path%3E%3C/svg%3E");}.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle { --color-bg: var(--limette); background-image: linear-gradient(var(--color-bg), var(--color-bg)); background-position: center 70%; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: 85% 0.5em; transition: background-size var(--timing) var(--ease);}.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle:hover { background-image: none;}.nav-primary .menu > .menu-item-has-children,.nav-secondary .menu > .menu-item-has-children { position: relative;}.nav-primary .sub-menu,.nav-secondary .sub-menu { display: none;}.nav-primary .sub-menu[aria-hidden="false"],.nav-secondary .sub-menu[aria-hidden="false"] { display: block;}.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle { --color-decoration: var(--limette); background-color: transparent; background-image: none; color: var(--color-copy); text-decoration: underline; -webkit-text-decoration-color: var(--color-decoration); text-decoration-color: var(--color-decoration); text-decoration-thickness: 0.25em;}@media (max-width: 81.1875em) { .nav-primary[aria-hidden="false"], .nav-secondary[aria-hidden="false"] { display: grid; } .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle { --color-decoration: var(--limette); background-color: transparent; background-image: none; color: var(--color-copy); text-decoration: underline; -webkit-text-decoration-color: var(--color-decoration); text-decoration-color: var(--color-decoration); text-decoration-thickness: 0.25em; } .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle:hover { background-color: var(--color-copy); color: var(--color-body); text-decoration: none; } .nav-primary a, .nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary a, .nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle { width: calc(100% - var(--responsive-spacing-x)); padding-inline: var(--responsive-spacing-x); } .nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle { -webkit-padding-end: 0.5em; padding-inline-end: 0.5em; } .nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .icon, .nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .icon { transform: scale(-1); } .nav-primary .sub-menu, .nav-secondary .sub-menu { background-color: var(--color-bg); font-weight: 600; } .nav-primary .sub-menu[aria-hidden="false"], .nav-secondary .sub-menu[aria-hidden="false"] { display: block; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .nav-primary { flex-grow: 1; } .nav-primary, .nav-secondary { display: flex; align-items: center; } .nav-primary a, .nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary a, .nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle { padding-inline: 1.5rem; } .nav-primary .menu, .nav-secondary .menu { display: flex; } .nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .icon, .nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .icon { transform: scale(-1); } .nav-primary .depth-0 > .sub-menu, .nav-secondary .depth-0 > .sub-menu { position: absolute; left: -0.5rem; top: 100%; margin-top: 1rem; padding: 1rem; min-width: 20rem; background-color: var(--color-accent); font-size: var(--font-size-increased); font-weight: 600; } .nav-primary .sub-menu .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-primary .sub-menu a, .nav-secondary .sub-menu .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .sub-menu a { -webkit-padding-end: 1rem; padding-inline-end: 1rem; -webkit-padding-start: 1rem; padding-inline-start: 1rem; color: var(--color-copy); } .nav-primary .sub-menu .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-primary .sub-menu a:hover, .nav-secondary .sub-menu .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .sub-menu a:hover { background-color: transparent; color: var(--color-highlight); } body::after { content: ""; position: fixed; inset: 0; pointer-events: none; -webkit-user-select: none; -moz-user-select: none; user-select: none; background-color: black; opacity: 0; z-index: 3; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) and (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { body::after { will-change: opacity; transition: opacity var(--timing) var(--ease); }}.breadcrumbs { -webkit-margin-after: 1rem; margin-block-end: 1rem; font-size: var(--font-size-base); color: var(--color-copy); font-weight: 700; text-transform: uppercase;}.breadcrumbs a { color: currentColor;}.breadcrumbs__inner-container { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap;}.breadcrumbs__item + .breadcrumbs__item::before { content: "/"; display: inline-block; margin: 0 0.25rem;}.breadcrumbs__link { text-decoration: none;}.breadcrumbs__link:hover { text-decoration: underline;}.hashtags { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0 1rem; -webkit-margin-after: 1rem; margin-block-end: 1rem; color: var(--color-copy); text-transform: uppercase; font-weight: bold;}.teaser .hashtags { line-height: 1.3;}.teaser--featured .hashtags { -webkit-margin-after: 0.5rem; margin-block-end: 0.5rem;}@media (min-width: 31.25em) and (max-width: 46.8125em) { .intro .hashtags { -webkit-padding-end: 8rem; padding-inline-end: 8rem; }}.hashtags__item-link { position: relative; z-index: 2; color: var(--color-copy); text-decoration: none;}.hashtags__item-link:hover { text-decoration: underline;}.sharelinks:not(:last-child) { margin-bottom: 2rem;}.sharelinks__heading { -webkit-margin-after: 0.5em; margin-block-end: 0.5em; font-weight: 600;}.sharelinks__list { display: flex; gap: 0.5em;}.sharelinks__link { --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; width: 2em; height: 2em; padding: 0.25em; border-radius: 50%; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); transition: background-color var(--transition), color var(--transition);}.sharelinks__link:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.sharelinks__link[href*="twitter"] .icon { width: 0.8em; height: 0.8em;}.sharelinks__link .icon { width: 1em; height: 1em;}.sharelinks__link[target="_blank"]::after { display: none;}.toc { display: none;}@media (min-width: 0em) { .toc { position: sticky; top: 1rem; } .admin-bar .toc { top: calc(1rem + 46px); }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .toc { top: 7rem; } .admin-bar .toc { top: calc(7rem + 46px); }}.toc:not(:last-child) { margin-bottom: 2rem;}.toc.is-shown { display: block;}.toc__heading { -webkit-margin-after: 0.5em; margin-block-end: 0.5em; font-size: var(--font-size-base); font-weight: 700;}.toc__list-item { -webkit-padding-start: 1em; padding-inline-start: 1em; -webkit-border-start: 2px solid var(--color-bg); border-inline-start: 2px solid var(--color-bg); transition: border-color var(--transition);}.toc__list-item[data-toc-current] { -webkit-border-start: 2px solid var(--color-action); border-inline-start: 2px solid var(--color-action); font-weight: bold;}.toc__list-item[data-toc-current] .toc__list-link-text { background-size: 100% 0.5em;}.toc__list-item[data-toc-current] .toc__list-link:hover .toc__list-link-text { background-size: 100% 0.75em;}.toc__list-link { display: block; padding-block: 0.666em; align-items: center;}.toc__list-link:hover { -webkit-text-decoration-color: transparent; text-decoration-color: transparent;}.toc__list-link-text { --color-bg: var(--limette); background-image: linear-gradient(var(--color-bg), var(--color-bg)); background-position: left bottom; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: 100% 0; transition: background-size var(--timing) var(--ease);}.teasers { display: grid; gap: var(--responsive-spacing-x);}@media (min-width: 37.5em) { .teasers { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); }}@media (min-width: 62.5em) { .teasers { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); }}.teaser { position: relative; isolation: isolate; display: grid; gap: 1rem; transform: translate(0);}.teaser.teaser--featured { max-width: 45rem; font-family: var(--font-family); font-size: var(--font-size-base); line-height: 1.7;}@media (min-width: 25em) { .teaser.teaser--featured { grid-template-columns: 40% 60%; gap: 0; }}@media (min-width: 31.25em) { .teaser.teaser--featured { grid-template-columns: 25% 75%; }}@media (min-width: 31.25em) { .teaser.teaser--featured { grid-template-columns: 40% 60%; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .teaser.teaser--featured { grid-template-columns: 25% 75%; }}.teaser:hover .teaser__media { transform: scale(1.1);}.teaser__media-container { aspect-ratio: 4/3; overflow: hidden; background-color: var(--color-bg); z-index: -2;}@media (min-width: 15.625em) and (max-width: 62.4375em) { .teaser__media-container { aspect-ratio: 16/9; }}.teaser__media { position: relative; z-index: -1; width: 100%; height: 100%; -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover; transition: transform var(--transition);}.teaser__heading { font-size: var(--font-size-heading-small); line-height: 1.3;}.teaser__content { -webkit-margin-before: -6rem; margin-block-start: -6rem; -webkit-margin-end: 3rem; margin-inline-end: 3rem; -webkit-padding-before: 1.5rem; padding-block-start: 1.5rem; -webkit-padding-end: 3rem; padding-inline-end: 3rem; background: var(--color-body); justify-self: start;}.teaser--featured .teaser__content { background-color: var(--color-bg); align-self: start; justify-self: auto; padding: 2rem;}@media (min-width: 25em) { .teaser--featured .teaser__content { -webkit-margin-before: 2rem; margin-block-start: 2rem; -webkit-margin-start: -4rem; margin-inline-start: -4rem; -webkit-margin-end: 0; margin-inline-end: 0; }}@media (min-width: 31.25em) { .teaser--featured .teaser__content { -webkit-margin-start: -2rem; margin-inline-start: -2rem; }}@media (min-width: 31.25em) { .teaser--featured .teaser__content { -webkit-margin-start: -4rem; margin-inline-start: -4rem; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .teaser--featured .teaser__content { -webkit-margin-start: -2rem; margin-inline-start: -2rem; }}.teaser__link { overflow-wrap: break-word; word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-hyphens: auto; hyphens: auto; -webkit-text-decoration-color: transparent; text-decoration-color: transparent;}.teaser__link::after { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: 1;}.teaser__link:focus-visible { outline: none;}.teaser__link:focus-visible::after { outline: var(--line) solid currentColor; outline-offset: 2px;}.teaser__link-text { --color-bg: var(--limette); background-image: linear-gradient(var(--color-bg), var(--color-bg)); background-position: left bottom; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: 100% 0.5em; transition: background-size var(--timing) var(--ease);}.teaser__link:hover .teaser__link-text { background-size: 100% 0.75em;}body.loading .loop { opacity: 0.5; pointer-events: none;}.loop__title { -webkit-margin-after: 1rem; margin-block-end: 1rem;}.loop__filter:not(:last-child) { -webkit-margin-after: 2rem; margin-block-end: 2rem;}.loop__filter.is-hidden { display: none;}.loop__filter.loop__filter--basic { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 1rem;}.loop__filter-general-reset-container { -webkit-margin-after: 0.5rem; margin-block-end: 0.5rem;}.loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-general-reset-container { -webkit-margin-after: 0; margin-block-end: 0;}.loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-tax { display: flex; gap: 0.5rem; width: 100%;}.loop__filter-tax-heading { position: relative; width: 100%; padding: 0; font-weight: bold;}.loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-tax-heading { width: auto; float: left;}.loop__filter-tax-toggle { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-hyphens: auto; hyphens: auto; width: 100%; display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 1em; padding-block: 0.5em; border: none; text-transform: uppercase; text-align: left; color: var(--color-copy);}.loop__filter-tax-toggle > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop__filter-tax-toggle-icon { color: var(--color-highlight); width: 0.8em; height: 0.8em;}@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .loop__filter-tax-toggle-icon { will-change: transform; transition: transform var(--timing) var(--ease); }}.loop__filter-tax-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .loop__filter-tax-toggle-icon { transform: scale(-1);}.loop__filter-tax-counter { display: none;}.loop__filter--multi .loop__filter-tax-counter { -webkit-margin-start: auto; margin-inline-start: auto; -webkit-margin-end: 0; margin-inline-end: 0; align-items: center;}.loop__filter--multi .loop__filter-tax-counter[data-term-count] { display: flex;}.loop__filter--multi .loop__filter-tax-counter:after { content: attr(data-term-count); display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; width: 1.5rem; height: 1.5rem; border: var(--line) solid var(--color-neutral); border-radius: 100%; background-color: transparent; color: var(--color-highlight); font-weight: normal;}.loop__filter-tax-body { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.5rem; -webkit-margin-after: 1rem; margin-block-end: 1rem;}.loop__filter-tax-body[aria-hidden="true"] { display: none;}.loop__filter-tax-terms { order: -1; font-weight: 600; max-block-size: 13.625rem; overflow: auto;}.loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-tax-terms { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.5rem; order: initial;}.loop__filter-term-label { cursor: pointer; -webkit-margin-start: 0.25em; margin-inline-start: 0.25em;}input:focus-visible + .loop__filter-term-label { outline: var(--line) dashed currentColor; outline-offset: 2px;}.loop__filter-term-toggle { width: 1em; height: 1em; margin: 0; accent-color: var(--color-copy);}.loop__filter-tax-apply { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease); padding: 0.5em 1em;}.loop__filter-tax-apply > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop__filter-tax-apply:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-tax-apply:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-tax-apply:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.loop__filter-tax-apply:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.loop__filter-tax-apply:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.loop__filter-general-apply { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}.loop__filter-general-apply > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop__filter-general-apply:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-general-apply:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-general-apply:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.loop__filter-general-apply:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.loop__filter-general-apply:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.loop__filter-tax-reset { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; padding: 0.1em 1.5em; color: var(--color-copy); background-color: transparent; border: var(--line) solid var(--color-copy); font-size: var(--font-size-increased); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease), border-color var(--timing) var(--ease); padding: 0.5em 1em;}.loop__filter-tax-reset > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop__filter-tax-reset:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-tax-reset:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-tax-reset:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.loop__filter-tax-reset:hover { color: var(--color-body); background-color: var(--color-highlight); border-color: var(--color-highlight);}.loop__filter-tax-reset:disabled { display: none;}.loop__filter-general-reset { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}.loop__filter-general-reset > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop__filter-general-reset:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-general-reset:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-general-reset:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.loop__filter-general-reset:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.loop__filter-general-reset:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-general-reset { padding: 0.1em 1.5em; color: var(--color-copy); background-color: transparent; border: var(--line) solid var(--color-copy); font-size: var(--font-size-increased); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease), border-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}.loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-general-reset:hover { color: var(--color-body); background-color: var(--color-highlight); border-color: var(--color-highlight);}.loop__filter-general-reset:disabled { display: none;}.loop__results:not(:last-child) { -webkit-margin-after: 2rem; margin-block-end: 2rem;}.loop .loop__load-more-container { display: flex; justify-content: center; -webkit-margin-before: 2rem; margin-block-start: 2rem;}.loop .loop__load-more-container.is-loading { opacity: 0.5;}.loop .loop__load-more-container.is-hidden { display: none;}.loop .loop__load-more { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}.loop .loop__load-more > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop .loop__load-more:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.loop .loop__load-more:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.loop .loop__load-more:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.loop .loop__load-more:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.loop .loop__load-more:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.loop .loop__more { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}.loop .loop__more > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop .loop__more:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.loop .loop__more:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.loop .loop__more:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.loop .loop__more:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.loop .loop__more:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}@media (max-width: 28.0625em) { .loop__filter-tax-reset, .loop__filter-tax-apply { width: 100%; justify-content: center; text-align: center; }}@media (max-width: 46.8125em) { .loop__filter--multi { background-color: var(--color-bg); } .loop__filter-tax:not(:last-child) { -webkit-border-after: 1px solid var(--color-neutral); border-block-end: 1px solid var(--color-neutral); } .loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-tax { -webkit-border-after: none; border-block-end: none; } .loop .loop__filter-tax-toggle { padding-block: 0.75em; padding-inline: 1.5em; } .loop .loop__filter-tax-body { -webkit-padding-after: 0.75em; padding-block-end: 0.75em; padding-inline: 1.5em; } .loop .loop__filter-tax-terms { width: 100%; }}@media (min-width: 46.875em) { .loop__filter { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 1rem; } .loop__filter-container { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 1rem; } .loop__filter-general-reset-container { width: 100%; -webkit-margin-after: 0; margin-block-end: 0; } .loop__filter-tax { position: relative; } .loop__filter-tax-toggle { -webkit-padding-start: 1.5em; padding-inline-start: 1.5em; -webkit-padding-end: 1.5em; padding-inline-end: 1.5em; border-radius: 4rem; background-color: var(--color-bg); color: var(--color-copy); }}@media (min-width: 46.875em) and (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .loop__filter-tax-toggle { will-change: border-color; transition: border-color var(--timing) var(--ease); }}@media (min-width: 46.875em) { .loop__filter-tax-body { position: absolute; top: 0.5rem; left: 0; padding: 1rem; background-color: var(--color-bg); min-width: 18.75rem; max-width: 21.875rem; z-index: 1; } .loop__filter-tax-terms { width: 100%; } .loop__filter-tax-reset, .loop__filter-tax-apply { flex: 1 1 100%; justify-content: center; text-align: center; } .loop__filter-tax-apply { box-shadow: none; } .loop__filter-tax-apply:hover { box-shadow: none; }}.site-header { z-index: 4; display: grid; grid-template-rows: -webkit-min-content 1fr; grid-template-rows: min-content 1fr; grid-template-columns: calc((100% - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2) auto 1fr calc((100% - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2); padding: 1rem 0; background-color: var(--color-body);}.site-header__nav-container { display: grid;}.site-header__nav-toggle { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; display: flex; justify-content: center; align-items: center; width: 2rem; height: 2rem; padding: 0; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--saitan); --color-background: var(--white); --color-background--hover: var(--salt); background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); grid-column: -2 / -3; justify-self: end; align-self: center; transition: background var(--timing) var(--ease), color var(--timing) var(--ease);}.site-header__nav-toggle > * { pointer-events: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon) { position: absolute; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); height: 1px; width: 1px; margin: -1px; padding: 0; border: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease); display: block; position: fixed; inset: var(--spacing) auto auto var(--spacing); height: auto; width: auto; clip: auto; z-index: 99;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus > * { pointer-events: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.site-header__nav-toggle:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.site-header__nav-toggle[aria-expanded="false"] .icon { width: 2.5rem;}.custom-logo-link { grid-column: 2 / 3; position: relative; display: block; justify-self: start; align-self: center; -webkit-margin-end: calc(var(--spacing) * 1.5); margin-inline-end: calc(var(--spacing) * 1.5); color: currentColor; text-decoration: none;}.custom-logo-link--text-only { display: flex; align-items: center; min-height: 2.75rem; font-weight: 700; padding: 0.4375rem 1rem; border: var(--line) solid currentColor;}@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .custom-logo-link { will-change: opacity; transition: opacity var(--timing) var(--ease); }}.custom-logo-link:hover { opacity: 0.7;}.custom-logo { max-block-size: calc(var(--spacing) * 4); width: auto;}@media (max-width: 81.1875em) { .site-header__nav-container { grid-row: 2 / 3; grid-column: 1 / 5; -webkit-padding-before: 2rem; padding-block-start: 2rem; -webkit-padding-after: 1rem; padding-block-end: 1rem; } .site-header__nav-container:not([aria-hidden="false"]) { display: none; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .site-header { position: sticky; top: 0; } .site-header__nav-container { grid-row: 1 / 2; grid-column: 3 / 4; grid-template-columns: 1fr auto auto; gap: 0.5rem; align-items: center; } .site-header__nav-toggle { display: none; } .site-header .searchform-container { grid-column: 1 / 3; grid-row: 1 / 2; } .nav-primary { grid-column: 1 / 2; grid-row: 1 / 2; } .nav-secondary { grid-column: 2 / 3; grid-row: 1 / 2; }}.intro:last-child { -webkit-margin-after: var(--responsive-spacing-y); margin-block-end: var(--responsive-spacing-y);}.intro__inner-container:not(:last-child) { -webkit-margin-after: var(--responsive-spacing-x); margin-block-end: var(--responsive-spacing-x);}.intro__content-wrapper { position: relative; margin-inline: calc(0px - var(--responsive-spacing-x)); padding: 2rem var(--responsive-spacing-x); background-color: var(--color-bg);}.intro--has-media .intro__content-wrapper { -webkit-padding-after: calc(2rem + 25%); padding-block-end: calc(2rem + 25%);}.intro__content-wrapper[data-advert]::before { content: attr(data-advert); display: inline-block; max-width: 8rem; -webkit-margin-after: 1rem; margin-block-end: 1rem; color: var(--color-highlight);}@media (min-width: 31.25em) { .intro__content-wrapper[data-advert]::before { position: absolute; right: var(--responsive-spacing-x); -webkit-margin-after: 0; margin-block-end: 0; }}.intro__content { max-width: 83ch;}.intro__excerpt { font-size: var(--font-size-medium); line-height: 1.5; -webkit-margin-before: 1rem; margin-block-start: 1rem;}.intro__media-container { position: relative; aspect-ratio: 1.8/1; width: 100%; -webkit-margin-before: -25%; margin-block-start: -25%; -webkit-margin-start: calc(0px - var(--responsive-spacing-x)); margin-inline-start: calc(0px - var(--responsive-spacing-x));}@media (min-width: 43.75em) { .intro__media-container { aspect-ratio: 2.2/1; }}@media (min-width: 43.75em) { .intro__media-container { width: 95%; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .intro__media-container { width: 85%; }}.intro__media { width: 100%; height: 100%; -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover;}@media (min-width: 48em) { .intro--has-media .intro__inner-container { grid-template-columns: 0.6fr 0.4fr; }}.intro-home:last-child { -webkit-margin-after: var(--responsive-spacing-y); margin-block-end: var(--responsive-spacing-y);}.intro-home__inner-container { background-color: var(--color-bg);}.intro-home--has-media .intro-home__inner-container { position: relative; background-color: transparent;}@media (min-width: 56.25em) { .intro-home--has-media .intro-home__inner-container { padding-bottom: 4rem; }}.intro-home__media-container { aspect-ratio: 1.8/1; margin-inline: calc(0px - var(--responsive-spacing-x));}@media (min-width: 34.375em) { .intro-home__media-container { aspect-ratio: 2.2/1; }}@media (min-width: 56.25em) { .intro-home__media-container { aspect-ratio: 2.8/1; }}.intro-home__media { width: 100%; height: 100%; -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover;}.intro-home__content { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 1rem; max-width: 44rem; padding: 2rem;}.intro-home--has-media .intro-home__content { position: relative; z-index: 1; -webkit-margin-before: -4rem; margin-block-start: -4rem; padding: 0;}@media (min-width: 43.75em) { .intro-home--has-media .intro-home__content { margin-inline: var(--responsive-spacing-x); }}@media (min-width: 56.25em) { .intro-home--has-media .intro-home__content { position: absolute; bottom: 0; -webkit-margin-before: unset; 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Mursi Volk in Äthiopien: Eine Stütze der Kultur Go to main content Clemens Sehi
Clemens hat kein Problem damit, am Tag 20.000 Schritte für das perfekte Foto zu machen. Er reist seitdem er denken kann.
Aktualisiert am 23. Februar 2024
Die ersten Sonnenstrahlen versetzen die Kudu-Antilopen in helle Aufregung. Bis zum Horizont ist nichts als flaches, ausgedörrtes Land. Staubwolken durchziehen die Prärie. Langsam wird es heller und die Umrisse runder Strohhütten, die scheinbar wild um ein paar Bäume herum platziert sind, werden allmählich sichtbar. Das Mursi-Volk erwacht – im Nirgendwo des Omo-Tals im Südwesten von Äthiopien am Horn von Afrika . Wie auch andere Stämme leben die knapp 10.000 Mitglieder im Mursi-Volk als Nomaden am unteren Flusstal des Omo in Südäthiopien, rund 800 Kilometer von Addis Abeba, der Hauptstadt Äthiopiens, entfernt. Die einzelnen Dorfgemeinschaften ziehen nach neun bis achtzehn Monaten weiter, je nachdem, wie schnell ihr Vieh das Land abgrast. Noch sieht hier, im Mago-Nationalpark (Wikipedia ), aber alles recht grün und bewohnt aus.
Reisetipps für Äthiopien: Der Mago-Nationalpark liegt im Süden Äthiopiens Als Erstes fallen die dürren Rinder ins Auge. Mühsam knabbern sie an den wenigen Dornenbüschen rund um die einfachen Behausungen des Stammes. Währenddessen schälen sich träge Stammesmitglieder aus den runden Lehmhütten, lose eingehüllt in ein Tuch, das sie eben noch als Decke zum Schlafen benutzt haben.
Das ist alles an Bekleidung, Männer, Frauen und Kinder der Mursi sind nahezu nackt. Einzig der Schmuck ist das, was hier wirklich zählt. Vor allem ein Accessoire macht das indigene Volk der Mursi weltweit einzigartig: bunt bemalte Tonteller, die die Frauen in ihrer Unterlippe tragen, viele groß wie Untertassen.
Eben dieser Schmuck, dieses kulturelle Kuriosum ist es, der gerade die Damen unterschiedlichen Alters zu begehrten Fotomotiven macht und die Mursi weit über die Landesgrenzen hinaus berühmt.
Die traditionellen Hütten des Mursi-Volks findet man im Süden immernoch Die Tellerlippenfrauen der Mursi tragen die Teller meist nur noch für die Touristen Die Tellerlippenfrauen im Mursi-Volk: Models mit Tradition „Photo? Yes, photo?“, kreischt es von allen Seiten auf die Neuankömmlinge im Mursi-Dorf ein. Die Frauen sind lebendige Kunstwerke und der Hauptgrund dafür, warum Touristen die beschwerliche Anreise über schier endlose Buckelpisten im Allradwagen auf sich nehmen.
Über den Ursprung der Tradition der Lippenteller kursieren verschiedene Geschichten. Eine besagt, die Mursi-Männer wollten ihre Frauen damit für andere unattraktiv machen. Ob wahr oder nicht, Fakt ist, dass sich die Mädchen für das charakteristische Erkennungszeichen beim Mursi-Volk einer langen Prozedur unterziehen. Dazu wird schon in der Pubertät die Unterlippe aufgeschlitzt, um eine kleine Tonscheibe in den Schnitt einzusetzen. Die Dhebi genannten Lippenteller müssen von den Mädchen nicht nur eigenhändig getöpfert, gebrannt und bemalt, sondern über die Jahre hinweg durch einen jeweils größeren ausgetauscht werden – damit nicht nur die Mundpartie, sondern auch das Ansehen der jungen Frauen wächst. Der schmerzhafteste Teil allerdings kommt zu jenem Zeitpunkt, wenn die unteren Schneidezähne stören. Diese werden dann kurzerhand herausgebrochen. Ein Höhepunkt eines mühsamen Prozesses, für oder gegen den sich die jungen Mädchen seit ein paar Jahren selbst entscheiden dürfen und nicht nach dem Willen der Männer spuren müssen. Allerdings sind auch diese hart im Nehmen. Sie treten, so will es die Tradition, in zeremoniellen Kämpfen gegeneinander an. Bewaffnet lediglich mit einer etwa zwei Meter langen Holzstange, Donga genannt, duellieren sie sich mit den Männern anderer Dörfer – bis aufs Blut und teilweise tagelang. Für das passende Erscheinungsbild führen sie sich selbst durch Skarifizierung etliche Zier- und Schmucknarben zu. Ein lebendes Kunstwerk zu werden ist für die Mursi ein wichtiger Teil ihres Werdegangs.So außergewöhnlich das Mursi-Volk auch ist, so gefährlich ist auch der Umgang mit ihrer Kultur. Denn es scheint die Ironie der Geschichte zu sein, dass gerade die spektakuläre Lebensweise des Volkes der Tellerlippenfrauen für sein allmähliches Aussterben verantwortlich ist.
Die Kids wachsen bei den Mursi meist im traditionellen Umfeld auf Dieses Outfit wurde explizit für die Touristen vor Ort angezogen Meist stellen sich die Bewohner des Dorfs direkt in ihre Fotopose Modellstehen gegen Bares: Jedes Foto kostet 20 Cent Als Anfang der 2000er Jahre sporadisch die ersten westlichen Touristen in die Stammesgebiete der Mursi reisten, trafen zwei völlig verschiedene Welten aufeinander. Einige Besucher gaben schon damals einen Obolus als Dank für das ein oder andere Foto. Und bald wurde dem Mursi-Volk bewusst, dass ihr Aussehen etwas Besonderes und ein Foto bares Geld wert ist. Heute kostet jeder Klick fünf Birr, was umgerechnet 20 Cent entspricht – das gilt übrigens auch für Kleinkinder. Bei Gruppenfotos gilt der Preis pro Person. Mit dem Eintreiben von Geldscheinen für Fotos ließ sich über die Jahre sogar mehr einnehmen, als mit dem Züchten von Rindern und anderem Vieh. Auch Ackerbau ist schon lange nicht mehr attraktiv. Wieso auch, wenn der Model-Job viel lukrativer ist? Seit die Einnahmen durch die Touristen die der Land- und Viehwirtschaft bei weitem übersteigen, liegen Hirse- und Maisfelder brach. Rinder werden seit Jahren nicht mehr gezüchtet, sondern gekauft. Und selbst die Lippenteller der Mursi-Frauen sind seit einigen Jahren zum großen Teil „Made in China“.
Heute winkt für das Mursi-Volk bares Geld für nahezu alles: Neben den 200 Birr pro Person für den Eintritt ins Mursi-Dorf, werden für die Fahrt durch den Mago-Nationalpark nochmals 460 Birr pro Fahrzeug fällig. Unabdingbar ist auch ein lokaler Reiseleiter, der 300 Birr erwartet, ebenso wie ein Scout, der 150 Birr bar in die Hand verlangt. Pro Besucher ist man also schnell bei über 1.000 Birr. Das sind bis zu 50 Euro – die Kosten für die Anreise im Allradwagen inklusive Fahrer noch gar nicht eingerechnet.
Die Männer der Mursi sehen sich heute noch als Krieger Das ist, ohne Zweifel, genug Geld für allerlei Unfug. Ein großer Teil der Foto- und Eintrittsgelder wird für den Kauf von Kalaschnikows verwendet, die schon ab 50 Euro aus den Nachbarländern Kenia und dem Südsudan importiert werden. Wer den Geldbetrag gerade nicht parat hat, kann auch tauschen: Für 10 Kühe gibt es die Waffe auch. Der Rest der Einnahmen geht vor allem für Schnaps drauf, den die Mursi bevorzugt tagsüber trinken und dabei meist in Massen statt in Maßen. Kein Wunder, dass sie für ihr oft stark alkoholisiertes Verhalten bekannt sind. Tatsächlich wird interessierten Touristen dringend empfohlen, die Dörfer früh am Morgen zu besuchen. Dann, wenn die Bewohner noch schlaftrunken sind, statt berauscht vom billigen Eigengebräu Areke, ein auf Mais basierender, milchiger und sehr hochprozentiger Likör – oder eben all den westlichen Alkoholika, die es auf dem Markt in der Provinzhauptstadt Jinka zu erwerben gibt. Nachmittags, so heißt es, sei die Stimmung zu gereizt, um fotogeile Besucher auf das Mursi-Volk loszulassen. Oder eben andersherum.
Das Geld wird bei den Mursi in Äthiopien mittlerweile meist für Waffen ausgegeben Maschinenpistolen und Alkoholmissbrauch Seit der industrielle Alkohol und Maschinengewehre Einzug ins Omo-Tal erhalten haben, wird Touristen nur in Begleitung von Scouts der äthiopischen Armee erlaubt, die Mursi-Dörfer überhaupt zu betreten. Und natürlich sind auch diese mit Kalaschnikows bewaffnet. Was im Notfall passieren könnte, mag man sich lieber gar nicht ausmalen. Oder mit Areke betäuben.
Aber was passiert eigentlich mit den eingenommenen Geldern? Diese werden, so erklärt der Stammesführer stolz, stets gerecht verteilt – bis auf den Foto-Obolus, jedermanns „own litte business“, fügt er lachend hinzu. Das kleine Privatgeschäft also. Er hingegen ist für das große Geschäft zuständig und fliegt, ebenso wie sein Bruder, sechs Monate im Jahr um die Welt, von Vortrag zu Vortrag. Sechs Länder habe er auf diese Weise schon bereist, sein Bruder sogar über 20. Als Botschafter der Mursi halten sie die Fahne ihrer Brüder und Schwestern hoch, tragen die traditionelle Lebensweise ihres Stammes weiter. Löblich, würde sich die Kultur, die von beiden weltweit verbreitet wird, nicht so rasant ändern.
Die Bekleidung der Mursi in Äthiopien ist absolut beeindruckend Das Volk der Mursi: Vom Aussterben bedroht? Schon lange möchte die äthiopische Regierung das Mursi-Volk sozialisieren und an die moderne Welt heranführen. Kinder sollen in die Schule geschickt, Erwachsenen Arbeit in der Stadt besorgt werden. Oder noch besser: direkt vor der Haustür. Denn am Omo-Fluss lässt die äthiopische Regierung eine gigantische Zuckerrohrplantage bauen. Es soll die größte in ganz Afrika werden. Das große Nachsehen werden die dort lebenden Stämme haben, auch die Mursi. Sie sollen sesshaft werden, „vernünftiger“ Arbeit nachgehen und endlich in der technisierten Gegenwart ankommen.
Die Moral von der Geschicht ist der große Widerspruch des Tourismus. Letztlich halten die Touristen die Entwicklung auf, denn sie zeigen Interesse an dem Mursi-Volk, indem sie sie durch ihren Besuch finanzieren. Ohne ihr Geld hätten sich die Mursi wohl schon längst von ihrer jahrhundertealten Tradition gelöst und einen Weg hin zu konventioneller Arbeit, hinein in die Städte, rein ins moderne Leben gefunden.
Noch sind es nur Gedankenspiele darüber, was wohl passiert, wenn die Härte der Regierung auf den Stolz der Stammesmitglieder trifft und stur gehorchende Militärs auf das bewaffnete und zugleich berauschte Mursi-Volk. Eben jene, so darf man nicht vergessen, waren einmal vor allem eines: ein Volk von Kriegern.
FAQ: Fragen zum Mursi-Volk Da uns immer wieder Fragen zum Mursi Tribe erreichen, wollen wir euch ein paar Antoworten liefern. Zu den häufigsten Fragen gehören die folgenden.
Kann man mit den Tellern in der Lippe essen? Ja, die Lippenteller werden zum Essen einfach entfernt und danach wieder eingesetzt.
Kann man mit den Lippenteller sprechen? Ja, man kann. Man sollte aber nicht davon ausgehen, dass das jeder könnte. Es gehört wohl viel Übung dazu, um mit dem Teller in den Lippen umzugehen und dennoch dem Sprechen nachzugehen.
Wie ist die Religion haben die Mursi? Wie viele Agro-Pastoralisten in Ostafrika glauben die Mursi an eine Kraft, die größer ist, als sie selbst. Sie nennen diese Kraft Tumwi. Diese befindet sich dem Glauben nach am Himmel, z.B. in Form eines Regenbogens oder eines Vogel. Das wichtigste religiöse und rituelle Amt in der Gesellschaft ist das des Kômoru, des Priesters oder des Schamanen. Das Amt muss geerbt werden. Der Kômoru ist zustädnig für das Wohlergehen der Gruppe und fungiert als Kommunikationsmittel zwischen der Gemeinschaft und dem Gott (Tumwi), insbesondere wenn es durch Ereignisse wie Dürre, Ernteschädlinge und Krankheiten bedroht ist. Zu seiner Rolle gehören zum Beispiel Rituale, um Regen herbeizuführen, aber auch um Männer, Rinder und Ernten vor Krankheiten zu schützen und bedrohte Angriffe anderer Stämme abzuwehren.
Fragen zum Mursi-Volk? Her damit! Wir freuen uns über eure Fragen in den Kommentaren.
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