");}.wysiwyg .info-box--activity::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--car::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--food::after { background-image: url('data:image/svg+xml, ');}.wysiwyg .info-box--info::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--link::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--location::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--tickets::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--times::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--train::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--travel::after { background-image: url('data:image/svg+xml, ');}.wysiwyg .info-box--savings::after { background-image: url('data:image/svg+xml, ');}.wysiwyg .info-box > * + * { -webkit-margin-before: var(--spacing-p-start); margin-block-start: var(--spacing-p-start);}.wysiwyg .info-box > * + *:is(h2, h3, h4, h5) { -webkit-margin-before: 2.625rem; margin-block-start: 2.625rem;}.wysiwyg img { width: 100%;}.icon { width: 1em; height: 1em; fill: currentColor;}a { color: var(--color-copy); text-decoration: underline; -webkit-text-decoration-color: var(--color-copy); text-decoration-color: var(--color-copy); transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), -webkit-text-decoration-color var(--timing) var(--ease); transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), text-decoration-color var(--timing) var(--ease); transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), text-decoration-color var(--timing) var(--ease), -webkit-text-decoration-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}a:hover { color: currentColor; -webkit-text-decoration-color: currentColor; text-decoration-color: currentColor;}/*a[target="_blank"]::after { content: ""; display: inline-block; width: 0.8em; height: 0.8em; -webkit-margin-start: 0.333em; margin-inline-start: 0.333em; background-color: currentColor; -webkit-mask: url('data:image/svg+xml, '); mask: url('data:image/svg+xml, '); -webkit-mask-size: cover; mask-size: cover;}*/*:focus { outline: none;}*:focus-visible { outline: var(--line) solid currentColor; outline-offset: 2px;}[id] { --scroll-margin: 5rem; scroll-margin: var(--scroll-margin);}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { [id] { --scroll-margin: 8.75rem; }}.module { margin-block: var(--responsive-spacing-y);}.module.module--less-spacing { margin-block: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2);}.module__title { -webkit-margin-after: 2rem; margin-block-end: 2rem;}.container { margin-inline: auto; inline-size: 100%; max-inline-size: var(--container--width);}.container--wide { max-inline-size: var(--container--width--wide);}.container--wider { max-inline-size: var(--container--width--wider);}.container--full { max-inline-size: var(--container--width--full);}.container--left-wide { -webkit-margin-start: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wide)) / 2); margin-inline-start: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wide)) / 2);}.container--left-wider { -webkit-margin-start: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2); margin-inline-start: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2);}.container--right-wide { -webkit-margin-end: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2); margin-inline-end: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2);}.container--right-wider { -webkit-margin-end: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2); margin-inline-end: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2);}form,fieldset { margin: 0; padding: 0; min-width: 0; border: none;}[type="text"],[type="name"],[type="url"],[type="number"],[type="email"],[type="tel"],[type="search"],[type="password"],textarea,select { display: block; margin: 0; padding: 0.4375rem 0.75rem; min-width: 1px; width: 100%; max-width: 100%; min-height: 44px; font-size: 1rem; color: var(--color-copy); background-color: var(--color-body); border: var(--line) solid var(--color-neutral); -webkit-appearance: none;}@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { [type="text"], [type="name"], [type="url"], [type="number"], [type="email"], [type="tel"], [type="search"], [type="password"], textarea, select { will-change: background-color, border-color; transition: background-color var(--timing) var(--ease), border-color var(--timing) var(--ease); }}[type="text"]:hover,[type="name"]:hover,[type="url"]:hover,[type="number"]:hover,[type="email"]:hover,[type="tel"]:hover,[type="search"]:hover,[type="password"]:hover,textarea:hover,select:hover { background-color: var(--gray-1);}[type="text"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="name"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="url"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="number"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="email"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="tel"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="search"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="password"]::-moz-placeholder,textarea::-moz-placeholder,select::-moz-placeholder { font-size: 1rem; color: var(--gray-8);}[type="text"]::placeholder,[type="name"]::placeholder,[type="url"]::placeholder,[type="number"]::placeholder,[type="email"]::placeholder,[type="tel"]::placeholder,[type="search"]::placeholder,[type="password"]::placeholder,textarea::placeholder,select::placeholder { font-size: 1rem; color: var(--gray-8);}[type="text"]:focus,[type="name"]:focus,[type="url"]:focus,[type="number"]:focus,[type="email"]:focus,[type="tel"]:focus,[type="search"]:focus,[type="password"]:focus,textarea:focus,select:focus { box-shadow: none; border-color: var(--gray-6);}[type="search"]::-webkit-search-cancel-button { -webkit-appearance: none;}select { -webkit-padding-end: 2.75rem; padding-inline-end: 2.75rem; background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg fill='%23999999' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 320 512'%3E%3Cpath d='M31.3 192h257.3c17.8 0 26.7 21.5 14.1 34.1L174.1 354.8c-7.8 7.8-20.5 7.8-28.3 0L17.2 226.1C4.6 213.5 13.5 192 31.3 192z'%3E%3C/path%3E%3C/svg%3E"); background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: 1rem; background-position: right 0.75rem center; cursor: pointer;}[disabled="disabled"] { opacity: 0.5; cursor: not-allowed;}.form { padding: 1rem; background-color: var(--gray-2); border-radius: var(--roundness);}@media (min-width: 20em) { .form { padding: calc(1rem + 16 * ((100vw - 320px) / 400)); }}@media (min-width: 45em) { .form { padding: 2rem; }}.form__section + .form__section { -webkit-margin-before: 1.5rem; margin-block-start: 1.5rem;}.form__section-title { font-size: 1.25rem; line-height: 1.5; font-weight: bold;}.form__input-container + .form__input-container { -webkit-margin-before: 1.5rem; margin-block-start: 1.5rem;}[type="submit"]:not([class]),.form__submit { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}[type="submit"]:not([class]) > *,.form__submit > * { pointer-events: none;}[type="submit"]:not([class]):is(a),.form__submit:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}[type="submit"]:not([class]):is(a):hover,.form__submit:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}[type="submit"]:not([class]):active,.form__submit:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}[type="submit"]:not([class]):hover,.form__submit:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}[type="submit"]:not([class]):focus-visible,.form__submit:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.form__submit-container { display: grid; -webkit-margin-before: 1.5rem; margin-block-start: 1.5rem;}@media (min-width: 35.5em) { .form__submit-container { justify-items: end; }}@media (max-width: 35.4375em) { .form__submit-container .form__submit { width: 100%; justify-content: center; }}label:not([class]),.form__input-label { display: block; font-weight: 700; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--color-copy);}label:not([class]) .required,.form__input-label .required { color: var(--red-5); text-decoration: none;}.checkbox,.radio { display: grid; grid-template-columns: auto 1fr; gap: 0.5rem; align-items: baseline;}.checkbox input,.radio input { grid-column-start: 1; margin: 0; accent-color: var(--color-highlight);}@-moz-document url-prefix() { .checkbox input, .radio input { transform: translateY(0.375rem); }}.checkbox label,.radio label { grid-column-start: 2;}.checkbox input,.checkbox label,.radio input,.radio label { cursor: pointer;}.snackbar { position: fixed; z-index: 4; padding: 1em; border-radius: var(--roundness);}@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .snackbar { -webkit-animation: snackbarEntry var(--timing) var(--ease) forwards; animation: snackbarEntry var(--timing) var(--ease) forwards; }}@media (max-width: 35.4375em) { .snackbar { right: calc(1rem / 2); bottom: calc(1rem / 2); left: calc(1rem / 2); }}@media (max-width: 35.4375em) and (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .snackbar { transform: translateY(calc(100% + 1rem)); }}@media (min-width: 35.5em) { .snackbar { top: 1rem; right: 1rem; margin-inline: 1rem 2.75rem; max-width: 666px; }}@media (min-width: 35.5em) and (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .snackbar { transform: translateX(calc(100% + 1rem)); }}.snackbar--success { background-color: var(--green-1); color: var(--green-5);}.snackbar--error { background-color: var(--red-1); color: var(--red-5);}.snackbar--has-icon { display: grid; gap: var(--spacing);}@media (min-width: 35.5em) { .snackbar--has-icon { grid-template-columns: 2rem 1fr; align-items: center; }}.snackbar__icon { width: 2rem; height: 2rem;}.snackbar__close { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; display: flex; justify-content: center; align-items: center; width: 2rem; height: 2rem; padding: 0; position: absolute; top: 0; right: 0;}.snackbar__close > * { pointer-events: none;}.snackbar__close:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.snackbar__close:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.snackbar__close:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon) { position: absolute; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); height: 1px; width: 1px; margin: -1px; padding: 0; border: none;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease); display: block; position: fixed; inset: var(--spacing) auto auto var(--spacing); height: auto; width: auto; clip: auto; z-index: 99;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus > * { pointer-events: none;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.snackbar__close-icon { margin-inline: auto 0; align-self: start;}@-webkit-keyframes snackbarEntry { to { transform: translate(0); }}@keyframes snackbarEntry { to { transform: translate(0); }}input[type="text"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="name"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="url"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="number"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="email"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="tel"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="search"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="password"][aria-invalid="true"],textarea[aria-invalid="true"],select[aria-invalid="true"] { border-color: var(--red-5);}input[type="text"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="name"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="url"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="number"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="email"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="tel"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="search"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="password"][aria-invalid="false"],textarea[aria-invalid="false"],select[aria-invalid="false"] { border-color: var(--green-5);}[aria-invalid="true"] + .fv-plugins-message-container,[aria-invalid="true"] + label + .fv-plugins-message-container { color: var(--red-5);}.searchform-toggle { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; display: flex; justify-content: center; align-items: center; width: 2rem; height: 2rem; padding: 0; background-color: transparent; color: currentColor; transition: background-color var(--transition), color var(--transition);}.searchform-toggle > * { pointer-events: none;}.searchform-toggle:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.searchform-toggle:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.searchform-toggle:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon) { position: absolute; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); height: 1px; width: 1px; margin: -1px; padding: 0; border: none;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease); display: block; position: fixed; inset: var(--spacing) auto auto var(--spacing); height: auto; width: auto; clip: auto; z-index: 99;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus > * { pointer-events: none;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.searchform-toggle:hover { background-color: var(--color-copy); color: var(--color-body);}@media (max-width: 81.1875em) { .searchform-toggle { display: none; }}.site-header .searchform-container { position: relative;}@media (max-width: 81.1875em) { .site-header .searchform-container { width: 100%; max-width: var(--container--width--wider); -webkit-margin-before: 1.5rem; margin-block-start: 1.5rem; margin-inline: auto; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .site-header .searchform-container { display: none; }}.search .intro .searchform-container { max-width: 50rem; margin: 0 auto;}.search .intro .searchform-container:not(:first-child) { -webkit-margin-before: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2); margin-block-start: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2);}.search .intro .searchform-container:not(:last-child) { -webkit-margin-after: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2); margin-block-end: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2);}.searchform { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr auto; gap: 10px; background-color: var(--color-bg);}.site-header .searchform:not([aria-hidden="false"]) { display: none;}.searchform__input[type="search"] { background-color: var(--color-bg); border: 0;}.searchform__submit { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; display: flex; justify-content: center; align-items: center; width: 2rem; height: 2rem; padding: 0; align-self: center; background-color: transparent; color: currentColor; transition: background-color var(--transition), color var(--transition);}.searchform__submit > * { pointer-events: none;}.searchform__submit:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.searchform__submit:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.searchform__submit:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon) { position: absolute; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); height: 1px; width: 1px; margin: -1px; padding: 0; border: none;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease); display: block; position: fixed; inset: var(--spacing) auto auto var(--spacing); height: auto; width: auto; clip: auto; z-index: 99;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus > * { pointer-events: none;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .searchform__submit { will-change: color; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease); }}.searchform__submit:hover { background-color: var(--color-copy); color: var(--color-body);}.search-nav:not(:first-child) { -webkit-margin-before: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2); margin-block-start: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2);}.search-nav:not(:last-child) { -webkit-margin-after: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2); margin-block-end: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2);}.search-nav__list { display: flex; -webkit-border-after: var(--line) solid var(--color-bg); border-block-end: var(--line) solid var(--color-bg);}.search-nav__list-item-link { display: flex; position: relative; top: 2px; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; padding: 0.5em 1.5em; -webkit-border-after: var(--line) solid transparent; border-block-end: var(--line) solid transparent; text-decoration: none; transition: border var(--transition), color var(--transition);}.current_page_item .search-nav__list-item-link { border-color: var(--color-action); font-weight: bold;}.search-nav__list-item-link:hover { border-color: var(--color-highlight); color: var(--color-highlight);}.search-nav__list-item-count { -webkit-margin-start: 0.5em; margin-inline-start: 0.5em;}.nav-primary { font-size: var(--font-size-medium); font-weight: bold;}.nav-primary a,.nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary a,.nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle { color: currentColor; line-height: 1.3; transition: background-color var(--transition), color var(--transition);}.nav-primary a:hover,.nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary a:hover,.nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle:hover { background-color: var(--color-copy); color: var(--color-body);}.nav-primary a:active,.nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle:active,.nav-secondary a:active,.nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle:active { opacity: 0.8;}.nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; white-space: nowrap; overflow: hidden; text-overflow: ellipsis; width: 100%; min-height: 44px; justify-content: space-between; font-size: 1em;}.nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle > *,.nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle > * { pointer-events: none;}.nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle__icon,.nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle__icon { fill: currentColor; width: 0.75em; height: 0.75em; -webkit-margin-start: 0.333em; margin-inline-start: 0.333em; transition: transform var(--transition);}.nav-primary a,.nav-secondary a { display: flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; text-decoration: none;}.nav-primary a[target="_blank"],.nav-secondary a[target="_blank"] { -webkit-padding-end: 1.5em; padding-inline-end: 1.5em; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-position: right center; background-size: 1em; background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg fill='%23fff' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='16' height='16' viewBox='0 0 576 512'%3E%3Cpath d='M576 24v127.984c0 21.461-25.96 31.98-40.971 16.971l-35.707-35.709-243.523 243.523c-9.373 9.373-24.568 9.373-33.941 0l-22.627-22.627c-9.373-9.373-9.373-24.569 0-33.941L442.756 76.676l-35.703-35.705C391.982 25.9 402.656 0 424.024 0H552c13.255 0 24 10.745 24 24zM407.029 270.794l-16 16A23.999 23.999 0 0 0 384 303.765V448H64V128h264a24.003 24.003 0 0 0 16.97-7.029l16-16C376.089 89.851 365.381 64 344 64H48C21.49 64 0 85.49 0 112v352c0 26.51 21.49 48 48 48h352c26.51 0 48-21.49 48-48V287.764c0-21.382-25.852-32.09-40.971-16.97z'%3E%3C/path%3E%3C/svg%3E");}.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle { --color-bg: var(--limette); background-image: linear-gradient(var(--color-bg), var(--color-bg)); background-position: center 70%; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: 85% 0.5em; transition: background-size var(--timing) var(--ease);}.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle:hover { background-image: none;}.nav-primary .menu > .menu-item-has-children,.nav-secondary .menu > .menu-item-has-children { position: relative;}.nav-primary .sub-menu,.nav-secondary .sub-menu { display: none;}.nav-primary .sub-menu[aria-hidden="false"],.nav-secondary .sub-menu[aria-hidden="false"] { display: block;}.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle { --color-decoration: var(--limette); background-color: transparent; background-image: none; color: var(--color-copy); text-decoration: underline; -webkit-text-decoration-color: var(--color-decoration); text-decoration-color: var(--color-decoration); text-decoration-thickness: 0.25em;}@media (max-width: 81.1875em) { .nav-primary[aria-hidden="false"], .nav-secondary[aria-hidden="false"] { display: grid; } .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle { --color-decoration: var(--limette); background-color: transparent; background-image: none; color: var(--color-copy); text-decoration: underline; -webkit-text-decoration-color: var(--color-decoration); text-decoration-color: var(--color-decoration); text-decoration-thickness: 0.25em; } .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle:hover { background-color: var(--color-copy); color: var(--color-body); text-decoration: none; } .nav-primary a, .nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary a, .nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle { width: calc(100% - var(--responsive-spacing-x)); padding-inline: var(--responsive-spacing-x); } .nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle { -webkit-padding-end: 0.5em; padding-inline-end: 0.5em; } .nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .icon, .nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .icon { transform: scale(-1); } .nav-primary .sub-menu, .nav-secondary .sub-menu { background-color: var(--color-bg); font-weight: 600; } .nav-primary .sub-menu[aria-hidden="false"], .nav-secondary .sub-menu[aria-hidden="false"] { display: block; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .nav-primary { flex-grow: 1; } .nav-primary, .nav-secondary { display: flex; align-items: center; } .nav-primary a, .nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary a, .nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle { padding-inline: 1.5rem; } .nav-primary .menu, .nav-secondary .menu { display: flex; } .nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .icon, .nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .icon { transform: scale(-1); } .nav-primary .depth-0 > .sub-menu, .nav-secondary .depth-0 > .sub-menu { position: absolute; left: -0.5rem; top: 100%; margin-top: 1rem; padding: 1rem; min-width: 20rem; background-color: var(--color-accent); font-size: var(--font-size-increased); font-weight: 600; } .nav-primary .sub-menu .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-primary .sub-menu a, .nav-secondary .sub-menu .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .sub-menu a { -webkit-padding-end: 1rem; padding-inline-end: 1rem; -webkit-padding-start: 1rem; padding-inline-start: 1rem; color: var(--color-copy); } .nav-primary .sub-menu .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-primary .sub-menu a:hover, .nav-secondary .sub-menu .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .sub-menu a:hover { background-color: transparent; color: var(--color-highlight); } body::after { content: ""; position: fixed; inset: 0; pointer-events: none; -webkit-user-select: none; -moz-user-select: none; user-select: none; background-color: black; opacity: 0; z-index: 3; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) and (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { body::after { will-change: opacity; transition: opacity var(--timing) var(--ease); }}.breadcrumbs { -webkit-margin-after: 1rem; margin-block-end: 1rem; font-size: var(--font-size-base); color: var(--color-copy); font-weight: 700; text-transform: uppercase;}.breadcrumbs a { color: currentColor;}.breadcrumbs__inner-container { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap;}.breadcrumbs__item + .breadcrumbs__item::before { content: "/"; display: inline-block; margin: 0 0.25rem;}.breadcrumbs__link { text-decoration: none;}.breadcrumbs__link:hover { text-decoration: underline;}.hashtags { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0 1rem; -webkit-margin-after: 1rem; margin-block-end: 1rem; color: var(--color-copy); text-transform: uppercase; font-weight: bold;}.teaser .hashtags { line-height: 1.3;}.teaser--featured .hashtags { -webkit-margin-after: 0.5rem; margin-block-end: 0.5rem;}@media (min-width: 31.25em) and (max-width: 46.8125em) { .intro .hashtags { -webkit-padding-end: 8rem; padding-inline-end: 8rem; }}.hashtags__item-link { position: relative; z-index: 2; color: var(--color-copy); text-decoration: none;}.hashtags__item-link:hover { text-decoration: underline;}.sharelinks:not(:last-child) { margin-bottom: 2rem;}.sharelinks__heading { -webkit-margin-after: 0.5em; margin-block-end: 0.5em; font-weight: 600;}.sharelinks__list { display: flex; gap: 0.5em;}.sharelinks__link { --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; width: 2em; height: 2em; padding: 0.25em; border-radius: 50%; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); transition: background-color var(--transition), color var(--transition);}.sharelinks__link:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.sharelinks__link[href*="twitter"] .icon { width: 0.8em; height: 0.8em;}.sharelinks__link .icon { width: 1em; height: 1em;}.sharelinks__link[target="_blank"]::after { display: none;}.toc { display: none;}@media (min-width: 0em) { .toc { position: sticky; top: 1rem; } .admin-bar .toc { top: calc(1rem + 46px); }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .toc { top: 7rem; } .admin-bar .toc { top: calc(7rem + 46px); }}.toc:not(:last-child) { margin-bottom: 2rem;}.toc.is-shown { display: block;}.toc__heading { -webkit-margin-after: 0.5em; margin-block-end: 0.5em; font-size: var(--font-size-base); font-weight: 700;}.toc__list-item { -webkit-padding-start: 1em; padding-inline-start: 1em; -webkit-border-start: 2px solid var(--color-bg); border-inline-start: 2px solid var(--color-bg); transition: border-color var(--transition);}.toc__list-item[data-toc-current] { -webkit-border-start: 2px solid var(--color-action); border-inline-start: 2px solid var(--color-action); font-weight: bold;}.toc__list-item[data-toc-current] .toc__list-link-text { background-size: 100% 0.5em;}.toc__list-item[data-toc-current] .toc__list-link:hover .toc__list-link-text { background-size: 100% 0.75em;}.toc__list-link { display: block; padding-block: 0.666em; align-items: center;}.toc__list-link:hover { -webkit-text-decoration-color: transparent; text-decoration-color: transparent;}.toc__list-link-text { --color-bg: var(--limette); background-image: linear-gradient(var(--color-bg), var(--color-bg)); background-position: left bottom; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: 100% 0; transition: background-size var(--timing) var(--ease);}.teasers { display: grid; gap: var(--responsive-spacing-x);}@media (min-width: 37.5em) { .teasers { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); }}@media (min-width: 62.5em) { .teasers { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); }}.teaser { position: relative; isolation: isolate; display: grid; gap: 1rem; transform: translate(0);}.teaser.teaser--featured { max-width: 45rem; font-family: var(--font-family); font-size: var(--font-size-base); line-height: 1.7;}@media (min-width: 25em) { .teaser.teaser--featured { grid-template-columns: 40% 60%; gap: 0; }}@media (min-width: 31.25em) { .teaser.teaser--featured { grid-template-columns: 25% 75%; }}@media (min-width: 31.25em) { .teaser.teaser--featured { grid-template-columns: 40% 60%; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .teaser.teaser--featured { grid-template-columns: 25% 75%; }}.teaser:hover .teaser__media { transform: scale(1.1);}.teaser__media-container { aspect-ratio: 4/3; overflow: hidden; background-color: var(--color-bg); z-index: -2;}@media (min-width: 15.625em) and (max-width: 62.4375em) { .teaser__media-container { aspect-ratio: 16/9; }}.teaser__media { position: relative; z-index: -1; width: 100%; height: 100%; -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover; transition: transform var(--transition);}.teaser__heading { font-size: var(--font-size-heading-small); line-height: 1.3;}.teaser__content { -webkit-margin-before: -6rem; margin-block-start: -6rem; -webkit-margin-end: 3rem; margin-inline-end: 3rem; -webkit-padding-before: 1.5rem; padding-block-start: 1.5rem; -webkit-padding-end: 3rem; padding-inline-end: 3rem; background: var(--color-body); justify-self: start;}.teaser--featured .teaser__content { background-color: var(--color-bg); align-self: start; justify-self: auto; padding: 2rem;}@media (min-width: 25em) { .teaser--featured .teaser__content { -webkit-margin-before: 2rem; margin-block-start: 2rem; -webkit-margin-start: -4rem; margin-inline-start: -4rem; -webkit-margin-end: 0; margin-inline-end: 0; }}@media (min-width: 31.25em) { .teaser--featured .teaser__content { -webkit-margin-start: -2rem; margin-inline-start: -2rem; }}@media (min-width: 31.25em) { .teaser--featured .teaser__content { -webkit-margin-start: -4rem; margin-inline-start: -4rem; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .teaser--featured .teaser__content { -webkit-margin-start: -2rem; margin-inline-start: -2rem; }}.teaser__link { overflow-wrap: break-word; word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-hyphens: auto; hyphens: auto; -webkit-text-decoration-color: transparent; text-decoration-color: transparent;}.teaser__link::after { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: 1;}.teaser__link:focus-visible { outline: none;}.teaser__link:focus-visible::after { outline: var(--line) solid currentColor; outline-offset: 2px;}.teaser__link-text { --color-bg: var(--limette); background-image: linear-gradient(var(--color-bg), var(--color-bg)); background-position: left bottom; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: 100% 0.5em; transition: background-size var(--timing) var(--ease);}.teaser__link:hover .teaser__link-text { background-size: 100% 0.75em;}body.loading .loop { opacity: 0.5; pointer-events: none;}.loop__title { -webkit-margin-after: 1rem; margin-block-end: 1rem;}.loop__filter:not(:last-child) { -webkit-margin-after: 2rem; margin-block-end: 2rem;}.loop__filter.is-hidden { display: none;}.loop__filter.loop__filter--basic { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 1rem;}.loop__filter-general-reset-container { -webkit-margin-after: 0.5rem; margin-block-end: 0.5rem;}.loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-general-reset-container { -webkit-margin-after: 0; margin-block-end: 0;}.loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-tax { display: flex; gap: 0.5rem; width: 100%;}.loop__filter-tax-heading { position: relative; width: 100%; padding: 0; font-weight: bold;}.loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-tax-heading { width: auto; float: left;}.loop__filter-tax-toggle { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-hyphens: auto; hyphens: auto; width: 100%; display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 1em; padding-block: 0.5em; border: none; text-transform: uppercase; text-align: left; color: var(--color-copy);}.loop__filter-tax-toggle > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop__filter-tax-toggle-icon { color: var(--color-highlight); width: 0.8em; height: 0.8em;}@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .loop__filter-tax-toggle-icon { will-change: transform; transition: transform var(--timing) var(--ease); }}.loop__filter-tax-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .loop__filter-tax-toggle-icon { transform: scale(-1);}.loop__filter-tax-counter { display: none;}.loop__filter--multi .loop__filter-tax-counter { -webkit-margin-start: auto; margin-inline-start: auto; -webkit-margin-end: 0; margin-inline-end: 0; align-items: center;}.loop__filter--multi .loop__filter-tax-counter[data-term-count] { display: flex;}.loop__filter--multi .loop__filter-tax-counter:after { content: attr(data-term-count); display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; width: 1.5rem; height: 1.5rem; border: var(--line) solid var(--color-neutral); border-radius: 100%; background-color: transparent; color: var(--color-highlight); font-weight: normal;}.loop__filter-tax-body { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.5rem; -webkit-margin-after: 1rem; margin-block-end: 1rem;}.loop__filter-tax-body[aria-hidden="true"] { display: none;}.loop__filter-tax-terms { order: -1; font-weight: 600; max-block-size: 13.625rem; overflow: auto;}.loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-tax-terms { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.5rem; order: initial;}.loop__filter-term-label { cursor: pointer; -webkit-margin-start: 0.25em; margin-inline-start: 0.25em;}input:focus-visible + .loop__filter-term-label { outline: var(--line) dashed currentColor; outline-offset: 2px;}.loop__filter-term-toggle { width: 1em; height: 1em; margin: 0; accent-color: var(--color-copy);}.loop__filter-tax-apply { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease); padding: 0.5em 1em;}.loop__filter-tax-apply > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop__filter-tax-apply:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-tax-apply:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-tax-apply:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.loop__filter-tax-apply:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.loop__filter-tax-apply:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.loop__filter-general-apply { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}.loop__filter-general-apply > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop__filter-general-apply:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-general-apply:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-general-apply:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.loop__filter-general-apply:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.loop__filter-general-apply:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.loop__filter-tax-reset { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; padding: 0.1em 1.5em; color: var(--color-copy); background-color: transparent; border: var(--line) solid var(--color-copy); font-size: var(--font-size-increased); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease), border-color var(--timing) var(--ease); padding: 0.5em 1em;}.loop__filter-tax-reset > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop__filter-tax-reset:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-tax-reset:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-tax-reset:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.loop__filter-tax-reset:hover { color: var(--color-body); background-color: var(--color-highlight); border-color: var(--color-highlight);}.loop__filter-tax-reset:disabled { display: none;}.loop__filter-general-reset { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}.loop__filter-general-reset > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop__filter-general-reset:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-general-reset:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-general-reset:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.loop__filter-general-reset:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.loop__filter-general-reset:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-general-reset { padding: 0.1em 1.5em; color: var(--color-copy); background-color: transparent; border: var(--line) solid var(--color-copy); font-size: var(--font-size-increased); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease), border-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}.loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-general-reset:hover { color: var(--color-body); background-color: var(--color-highlight); border-color: var(--color-highlight);}.loop__filter-general-reset:disabled { display: none;}.loop__results:not(:last-child) { -webkit-margin-after: 2rem; margin-block-end: 2rem;}.loop .loop__load-more-container { display: flex; justify-content: center; -webkit-margin-before: 2rem; margin-block-start: 2rem;}.loop .loop__load-more-container.is-loading { opacity: 0.5;}.loop .loop__load-more-container.is-hidden { display: none;}.loop .loop__load-more { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}.loop .loop__load-more > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop .loop__load-more:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.loop .loop__load-more:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.loop .loop__load-more:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.loop .loop__load-more:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.loop .loop__load-more:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.loop .loop__more { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}.loop .loop__more > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop .loop__more:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.loop .loop__more:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.loop .loop__more:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.loop .loop__more:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.loop .loop__more:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}@media (max-width: 28.0625em) { .loop__filter-tax-reset, .loop__filter-tax-apply { width: 100%; justify-content: center; text-align: center; }}@media (max-width: 46.8125em) { .loop__filter--multi { background-color: var(--color-bg); } .loop__filter-tax:not(:last-child) { -webkit-border-after: 1px solid var(--color-neutral); border-block-end: 1px solid var(--color-neutral); } .loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-tax { -webkit-border-after: none; border-block-end: none; } .loop .loop__filter-tax-toggle { padding-block: 0.75em; padding-inline: 1.5em; } .loop .loop__filter-tax-body { -webkit-padding-after: 0.75em; padding-block-end: 0.75em; padding-inline: 1.5em; } .loop .loop__filter-tax-terms { width: 100%; }}@media (min-width: 46.875em) { .loop__filter { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 1rem; } .loop__filter-container { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 1rem; } .loop__filter-general-reset-container { width: 100%; -webkit-margin-after: 0; margin-block-end: 0; } .loop__filter-tax { position: relative; } .loop__filter-tax-toggle { -webkit-padding-start: 1.5em; padding-inline-start: 1.5em; -webkit-padding-end: 1.5em; padding-inline-end: 1.5em; border-radius: 4rem; background-color: var(--color-bg); color: var(--color-copy); }}@media (min-width: 46.875em) and (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .loop__filter-tax-toggle { will-change: border-color; transition: border-color var(--timing) var(--ease); }}@media (min-width: 46.875em) { .loop__filter-tax-body { position: absolute; top: 0.5rem; left: 0; padding: 1rem; background-color: var(--color-bg); min-width: 18.75rem; max-width: 21.875rem; z-index: 1; } .loop__filter-tax-terms { width: 100%; } .loop__filter-tax-reset, .loop__filter-tax-apply { flex: 1 1 100%; justify-content: center; text-align: center; } .loop__filter-tax-apply { box-shadow: none; } .loop__filter-tax-apply:hover { box-shadow: none; }}.site-header { z-index: 4; display: grid; grid-template-rows: -webkit-min-content 1fr; grid-template-rows: min-content 1fr; grid-template-columns: calc((100% - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2) auto 1fr calc((100% - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2); padding: 1rem 0; background-color: var(--color-body);}.site-header__nav-container { display: grid;}.site-header__nav-toggle { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; display: flex; justify-content: center; align-items: center; width: 2rem; height: 2rem; padding: 0; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--saitan); --color-background: var(--white); --color-background--hover: var(--salt); background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); grid-column: -2 / -3; justify-self: end; align-self: center; transition: background var(--timing) var(--ease), color var(--timing) var(--ease);}.site-header__nav-toggle > * { pointer-events: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon) { position: absolute; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); height: 1px; width: 1px; margin: -1px; padding: 0; border: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease); display: block; position: fixed; inset: var(--spacing) auto auto var(--spacing); height: auto; width: auto; clip: auto; z-index: 99;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus > * { pointer-events: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.site-header__nav-toggle:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.site-header__nav-toggle[aria-expanded="false"] .icon { width: 2.5rem;}.custom-logo-link { grid-column: 2 / 3; position: relative; display: block; justify-self: start; align-self: center; -webkit-margin-end: calc(var(--spacing) * 1.5); margin-inline-end: calc(var(--spacing) * 1.5); color: currentColor; text-decoration: none;}.custom-logo-link--text-only { display: flex; align-items: center; min-height: 2.75rem; font-weight: 700; padding: 0.4375rem 1rem; border: var(--line) solid currentColor;}@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .custom-logo-link { will-change: opacity; transition: opacity var(--timing) var(--ease); }}.custom-logo-link:hover { opacity: 0.7;}.custom-logo { max-block-size: calc(var(--spacing) * 4); width: auto;}@media (max-width: 81.1875em) { .site-header__nav-container { grid-row: 2 / 3; grid-column: 1 / 5; -webkit-padding-before: 2rem; padding-block-start: 2rem; -webkit-padding-after: 1rem; padding-block-end: 1rem; } .site-header__nav-container:not([aria-hidden="false"]) { display: none; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .site-header { position: sticky; top: 0; } .site-header__nav-container { grid-row: 1 / 2; grid-column: 3 / 4; grid-template-columns: 1fr auto auto; gap: 0.5rem; align-items: center; } .site-header__nav-toggle { display: none; } .site-header .searchform-container { grid-column: 1 / 3; grid-row: 1 / 2; } .nav-primary { grid-column: 1 / 2; grid-row: 1 / 2; } .nav-secondary { grid-column: 2 / 3; grid-row: 1 / 2; }}.intro:last-child { -webkit-margin-after: var(--responsive-spacing-y); margin-block-end: var(--responsive-spacing-y);}.intro__inner-container:not(:last-child) { -webkit-margin-after: var(--responsive-spacing-x); margin-block-end: var(--responsive-spacing-x);}.intro__content-wrapper { position: relative; margin-inline: calc(0px - var(--responsive-spacing-x)); padding: 2rem var(--responsive-spacing-x); background-color: var(--color-bg);}.intro--has-media .intro__content-wrapper { -webkit-padding-after: calc(2rem + 25%); padding-block-end: calc(2rem + 25%);}.intro__content-wrapper[data-advert]::before { content: attr(data-advert); display: inline-block; max-width: 8rem; -webkit-margin-after: 1rem; margin-block-end: 1rem; color: var(--color-highlight);}@media (min-width: 31.25em) { .intro__content-wrapper[data-advert]::before { position: absolute; right: var(--responsive-spacing-x); -webkit-margin-after: 0; margin-block-end: 0; }}.intro__content { max-width: 83ch;}.intro__excerpt { font-size: var(--font-size-medium); line-height: 1.5; -webkit-margin-before: 1rem; margin-block-start: 1rem;}.intro__media-container { position: relative; aspect-ratio: 1.8/1; width: 100%; -webkit-margin-before: -25%; margin-block-start: -25%; -webkit-margin-start: calc(0px - var(--responsive-spacing-x)); margin-inline-start: calc(0px - var(--responsive-spacing-x));}@media (min-width: 43.75em) { .intro__media-container { aspect-ratio: 2.2/1; }}@media (min-width: 43.75em) { .intro__media-container { width: 95%; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .intro__media-container { width: 85%; }}.intro__media { width: 100%; height: 100%; -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover;}@media (min-width: 48em) { .intro--has-media .intro__inner-container { grid-template-columns: 0.6fr 0.4fr; }}.intro-home:last-child { -webkit-margin-after: var(--responsive-spacing-y); margin-block-end: var(--responsive-spacing-y);}.intro-home__inner-container { background-color: var(--color-bg);}.intro-home--has-media .intro-home__inner-container { position: relative; background-color: transparent;}@media (min-width: 56.25em) { .intro-home--has-media .intro-home__inner-container { padding-bottom: 4rem; }}.intro-home__media-container { aspect-ratio: 1.8/1; margin-inline: calc(0px - var(--responsive-spacing-x));}@media (min-width: 34.375em) { .intro-home__media-container { aspect-ratio: 2.2/1; }}@media (min-width: 56.25em) { .intro-home__media-container { aspect-ratio: 2.8/1; }}.intro-home__media { width: 100%; height: 100%; -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover;}.intro-home__content { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 1rem; max-width: 44rem; padding: 2rem;}.intro-home--has-media .intro-home__content { position: relative; z-index: 1; -webkit-margin-before: -4rem; margin-block-start: -4rem; padding: 0;}@media (min-width: 43.75em) { .intro-home--has-media .intro-home__content { margin-inline: var(--responsive-spacing-x); }}@media (min-width: 56.25em) { .intro-home--has-media .intro-home__content { position: absolute; bottom: 0; -webkit-margin-before: unset; 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Varzaneh im Iran: Eine Nacht in der Wüste Go to main content Clemens Sehi
Clemens hat kein Problem damit, am Tag 20.000 Schritte für das perfekte Foto zu machen. Er reist seitdem er denken kann.
Aktualisiert am 9. Januar 2024
Es gibt nur zwei Orte auf der Welt, an denen es so still ist, dass man seinen eigenen Atem in der Luftröhre fließen hören kann: der Gipfel eines Berges und die Wüste. Beide gelten als Naturschönheiten, die geschätzt werden sollten und die verzaubern. Die Varzaneh-Wüste im Iran ist ein solcher Ort. Nur 100 Kilometer trennen ihn und die chaotische Stadt Isfahan, die in den letzten Jahren zum größten Instagram-Hotspot des Landes geworden ist.
Mittlerweile sind hier die meisten Ecken der hübschen Moscheen zu kleinen privaten Fotostudios geworden, der geflieste Eingang der Gotteshäuser gilt als Kulisse für das neue Profilfoto und, ja, auch wirkte das Kopftuch auf den drapierten Frisuren der Touristinnen nie schöner. Isfahan verzaubert, keine Frage. Aber manchmal braucht es für die vollständige Magie auch weniger Touristen und Touristinnen.
Varzaneh: Mit Vollgas in die iranische Wüste Am Mittag ist die Luft im Iran am heftigsten. Dann laufen die Motoren der alten Karren auf Hochtouren laufen lassen, die Sonne steht am höchsten und die Straßen sind dicht gefüllt. Ein perfekter Moment, um die Kulisse von Isfahan für einen kurzen Moment auszublenden.
Mit dem 4WD geht’s direkt in die Wüste Die Wüste im Iran ist einfach ein absolutes Highlight Minute für Minute ändert sich das Bild am rechten und linken Autofenster. Fast schwebend gleitet der 4WD-Wagen über die buckelige Straße. Solange, bis kaum noch ein Haus, ein Bewohner und gar ein anderes Auto in weiter Ferne zu erkennen ist. Tschüss, Zivilisation. Hallo, Ruhepuls.
Für die Iraner ist die Varzaneh-Wüste eine Oase. Sie ist der Rückzugsort aus dem Alltag, ein Platz, an dem man hinter meterhohen Sanddünen am Wochenende ein Lagerfeuer machen oder ganz ungeniert auf Snowboards über die Dünen preschen kann.
Zandi und sein Zuhause „Vertragt ihr Kurven?“, fragt uns Zandi, als er den höchsten Punkt der Düne erreicht hat. „Bisher schon“, antworten wir zaghaft, den Blick auf die einmalige Kulisse gerichtet, die sich von hier oben unter uns entfaltet. Sand über Sand, so weit das Auge reicht. Manchmal sind es extrem hohe Sanddünen, manchmal kleine, natürlich geformte Täler. Und manchmal wirkt das Muster auf der Oberfläche des Sandes so, als hätte jemand filigrane Wellen daraus geformt.
Zandi gibt Gas. Im Vollkaracho brettern wir die Düne herunter, gehen in die Kurve, heizen wieder nach oben, bevor es noch steiler wieder nach unten geht. Zandis Blick ist dabei nach vorn gerichtet, so starr, dass ihn nichts und niemand aus der Ruhe bringen könnte. Immer nach vorne schauen – diesen Leitsatz kennen wir schon vom Surfen. Und genau so fühlt sie sich an, die wilde Fahrt mit dem wuchtigen Allradwagen, nämlich wie der Ritt auf einer mächtigen Welle. Sandwelle für Sandwelle surfen wir durch diese Wüste mitten im Iran – mit einer Leichtigkeit, die sich in diesem Land manchmal schwieriger gestaltet, als an den vielen anderen Orten dieser Welt.
Die Wüstenlandschaft nimmt einen immer den Atem Einmalige Muster im Sand Für Zandi ist die Varzaneh-Wüste im Iran das zweite Zuhause. Schon als kleiner Junge kam er am Wochenende hier her, entdeckte neu geformte Dünen, schlief in natürlichen Tälern oder rutschte auf Plastiktüten die steilen Berge hinunter. Heute zeigt er uns seine Wüste, sein Varzaneh. Sein kleines Refugium.
Varzaneh-Wüste: Kein Netz. Kein Problem. „Ich bringe euch an meinen Lieblingsort“, ruft er zu uns auf die Rückbank, als wir die letzte Kurve von der Düne herunter auf die Straße nehmen, die quer durch die rund 1000 Kilometer große Wüste führt. Wir fragen uns, wie er sich hier wohl navigiert. Unsere Smartphones zeigen schon seit vielen Stunden überhaupt kein Netz an. Null von vier Balken. Google Maps funktioniert nicht. Auch ein Navigationssystem hat Zandi nicht dabei. Und doch navigiert er sich gekonnt durch das Gelände, biegt mal nach rechts ab und mal nach links.
Nur vereinzelt erspähen wir Kleingruppen anderer Großstadtflüchtlinge, die es sich auf mitgebrachten Decken im riesigen Wüstenmeer gemütlich gemacht haben. Sonst nichts. Keine Straßenschilder, keine Wege, keine Bäume. Nichts, was auch nur annähernd der Navigation dienen könnte. Alles, was wir haben, ist Zandi und sein inneres Echolot, seine tief eingebrannte Kindheitserinnerung an Nächte, Tage und Wochenenden in der Wüste.
Im Tal der Wüstengiganten „Da hinten ist es“, ruft Zandi und zeigt auf eine mittelhohe Sanddüne zu unserer Linken. Mit einem Mal gibt es Vollgas und brettert nach oben, nur um von dort den Wagen steil nach unten ins Tal ausrollen zu lassen. Unser Zuhause für die Nacht besteht aus einer ebenen Fläche, umgeben von Sanddünen, die so herrlich unberührt und gemustert sind, dass wir sie am liebsten gar nicht erklimmen wollen. Jeder Fußstapfen würde ihr ein Stückchen ihres Antlitzes nehmen.
Der schönste Teil jedes Campingabenteuers ist, wenn das Lagerfeuer brennt, das Essen auf dem Grill brutzelt, die Zelte stehen und man langsam einen Stern nach dem anderen erkennt. Doch bis dahin dauert es noch eine ganze Weile. Wir packen alle mit an, verankern Heringe im weichen Wüstensand, pumpen Luftmatratzen auf, breiten Teppiche aus, schließen Heizungen an den Generator an, stapeln Holz aufeinander und machen uns bereit für das nächste große Highlight: den Sonnenuntergang.
Im Iran könnt ihr direkt in der Wüste zelten Keine Wüstennacht ohne Lagerfeuer Wann immer die Sonne eine komplette Landschaft in zartes Orange und warmes Gelb taucht, hört das Gehirn auf zu arbeiten. Es ist fixiert auf die Magie des Moments, auf die Schönheit, die sich in dem Moment entfaltet. Vor allem dann, wenn es um einen herum so ruhig ist, wie hier in der Wüste.
Für die letzten Minuten des Tages stellen wir uns an den höchsten Punkt der Düne. Von hier aus haben wir einen 360-Grad-Blick auf die Varzaneh-Wüste. Hier sind wir ganz allein. Nur wir, die Düne und die Sonne, die die Landschaft in eine Kulisse taucht, die man nicht in Worte fassen kann, die sich nicht beschreiben lässt.
Unten knistert das Lagerfeuer, oben die Milchstraße. Eine Nacht in der Wüste ist anders, als an anderen Orten dieser Welt. Unten knistert das Lagerfeuer, oben die Milchstraße. Zwischendrin verirren sich ein paar Sternschnuppen und immer wieder unser Blick nach oben zu den Abermillionen von Sternen, die sich über uns ausbreiten und den Himmel in einen glitzernden Teppich verwandeln.
Nachts kommt manchmal sogar der Wüstenfuchs vorbei Was macht man an einem Abend mitten in der Sandwüste – ohne Telefon, ohne Empfang und ohne Musik? Natürlich, wir lauschen dem Lagerfeuer und Zandis Geschichten über den Iran, seinen Alltag und seine Pläne und Träume. Ab und an beobachten wir Wüstenfüchse, die sich immer näher an unseren improvisierten Grill wagen. Schnell sind sie und schüchtern. Mal rennen sie schnurstracks nach oben auf die Düne, wo wir im tiefsten Dunkel nur noch ihre glitzernden Augen erkennen. Mal kommen sie uns so nah, dass wir sie fast hecheln hören. Da ist sie wieder, die so besondere Magie der Wüste.
Das Frühstück gibt es in der Varzaneh-Wüste im warmen Wüstensand Mit den ersten Sonnenstrahlen am Außenzelt endet die Nacht. Reißverschluss auf, Schuhe an. Der erste Schritt auf weichen Sandboden unseres Zuhauses auf Zeit wirkt surreal und erinnert blitzartig an die tierischen Begegnungen der letzten Nacht. Sie ist noch da, die iranische Wüste. Und mit ihr die sanften Dünen, die heute fast noch malerischer aussehen. Erst bei genauerem Hinsehen erkennt man, dass sich die Musterung der Sandoberfläche über Nacht verändert habt. Unsere tiefen Fußstapfen vom Vorabend sind längst nicht mehr zu erkennen. Stattdessen ist die perfekte gebügelte Oberfläche nur durchzogen von klitzekleinen Pfotenabdrücken.
„Habt ihr gut geschlafen?“, fragt Zandi. Das Lagerfeuer glüht und in einer gusseisernen Pfanne brutzeln Eier vor sich hin. „Na klar.“ Wie sollte man in einer solchen Stille, einer solchen Kulisse und so weit weg von Chaos, Stress und Smog nicht gut schlafen können? Tschüss, Varzaneh-Wüste, bis zum nächsten wundersamen Aufeinandertreffen.
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